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There’s a mini league of nations working away in Maraekakaho, in Hawke’s Bay, putting a huge effort into growing the perfect eating grape forlocal and international markets - and learning about each other’s culture andlanguage at the same time.

The team is helping develop a very niche sector in New Zealand’s horticultural landscape. There is less than 40 hectares of eating grapes in commercial production nationally, compared with tens of thousands of hectares devoted to wine grape production. Greencollar’s five-year-old vineyard, at around 20 ha, is one of the largest.

Members of the Greencollar team tending the Budou (Japanese forgrape) hail from Japan, New Zealand, China, India and Taiwan, bolstered during busy times by Pasifika teammates. “It’s a really great mix of cultures and levels of experience, with everyone bringing something unique to the team,” says chief executive Shin Koizumi.

Occasional shared lunches are a favourite, particularly curry provided by machinery operator Jassy (Jaswinder) Singh – or more accurately his wife - or his speciality: samosas. Given the company’s Japanese heritage, there’s often sushi or cold noodles salads on the table in summer.

The Kiwi culture has rubbed off on th einternational staff, says vineyard manager Taka (Takayuki) Kagayama. The former chef has been with the company since its first vineyard was planted in Japan in 2020, coming out to New Zealand to set up the Kiwi vineyard with Mr Koizumi in 2021. He appreciates the balanced approach to life, between work and family, that is a cornerstone of Greencollar NZ’s vision.“It’s not something we really have in Japan. Here, everyone always works hard to get their responsibilities completed but we know that our family time and things we do after work are valued as well.”

His journey to grower came through the realisation that farmers in Japan were an ageing workforce, with most over 65,compounded by a lack of interest in manual work in the younger generations. His lightbulb moment came from hearing talks on the importance of food production and the preservation of the rural landscape which took him from chef, towine grape grower and vintner, to eating grape grower.

The difference between growing wine grapes and eating grapes is marked, he says. They both take care and attention to achieve the right flavours and balance, but during the development of the fruit, eating grapes require a great deal of detailed work. “Wine doesn’t care what the grapes look like; while we need to be focused on the whole presentation: taste, flavour, balance and look – the skins need to be perfect.”

The Kiwi contingent is small but focused. Operations and sustainability manager Xan Harding says an unexpected benefit of having so many cultures, is having team members’ insights into their home markets. “Sometimes it’s the small things, like the way the packaging is presented, or the words we’re using, that can make all the difference.”

The other Kiwis on site over the summer holidays, were Havelock North High School students Jessica Ralsberg and Luca Josephs. They were with a contingent of Japanese language students who spent time on the vineyard the previous summer and returned regularly this year. Administration manager Kumi (Kumiko) Koizumi said the students were a delight to work with.“They were quite shy and quiet when they started, but we can see their confidence growing both with the vineyard work and being amongst colleagues from such a wide range of backgrounds and cultures. They are very determined and never give up.”

Vineyard hand Cloud (Shao) Yong Zou from Taiwan, is a former IT professional, with degrees in viticulture and oenology from Lincoln University in Christchurch and a business qualification from EIT. He has also worked with wine grapes, and agrees the approach for Japanese eating grapes is very different. “We take great care with every bunch and every grape on that bunch with quality first, over yield. It is very careful, precise work that is very satisfying.”

Vineyard overseer Kenta Kobayashi is extremely proud of the company he has worked for over the last six years, and loves New Zealand. His background was in the Japanese defence force before he joined Greencollar. Now he and his wife enjoy two summers a year – one on the Japan vineyard and then one on the New Zealand vineyard. “I would like to share this lifestyle with as many people as possible, as we just love summer.” 

Mrs Koizumi says one of the delights is hearing so many languages, and having everyone picking up pieces of each other’s first language. “When we have Pasifika team members as well during our busiest times, we really do represent a lot of nations. We have a majority of Japanese, with English the one language most of have a common understanding of, but everyone is picking up bits and pieces. It’s amazing how much we are learning from each other.”

Havelock North High School Japanese teacher Stephen Lowry said being amongst such varied languages was very valuable for the students. “It has been a great experience for both to work in an environment where they were immersed in the language and culture of Japan, while also developing broad international skills.”